“Reactive dog” is a term that you’ve probably heard if you’ve spent time in the dog training world. You might even have used it to describe your own dog who barks and lunges at other dogs, people or passing cars while on a walk with you. But what does reactivity really mean and how do we actually support reactive dogs?
Many trainers, myself included, try to avoid labeling dogs as “reactive” or aggressive”. The terms tend to stick and doesn’t reflect the bigger picture. Instead, it is more useful to focus on the behaviour itself.
For example, instead of saying “My dog is reactive”, it is more helpful to say that “my dog barks and lunges on leash when other dogs pass”. This is definitely more actionable because it tells us exactly what behaviour is happening and when. By focusing on the observable behaviour, we can make a plan to support instead of relying on vague and stigmatizing labels.
Reactivity can show up as:
-Barking, lunging or growling when a dog sees a trigger.
-Snapping or pulling strongly on the leash.
Some dogs escalate to biting, while others never do. From the outside, reactive and aggressive behaviour can look very similar, but it’s the function and intensity of the behaviour that differ.
Reactivity is almost always rooted in fear, stress, or anxiety, even when it doesn’t look that way. A barking dog lunging at another dog is often saying “I want you to go away!” and not “I want to fight”.
Other factors can contribute, such as frustration (for example, when a friendly but excitable dog can’t reach another dog to play). Over time, excitement and frustration can spill over into stress responses, which is why early intervention matters.
It is also worth remembering (as many probably know) that a dog who plays beautifully off-leash can still be reactive on-leash. The leash restricts choice and control. A dog isn’t able to move away and it changes how dogs interact socially.
One of the most overlooked aspects of working with reactivity is teaching calmness. Many owners (and trainers) put a lot of time into fun, flashy behaviours like agility or tricks (which is great), but not relaxation. Teaching a dog how to relax is just as important, if not more. Calmness exercises like mat training, pattern games, breathing exercises and rest days can help lower overall stress levels.
Think of rest like medicine. Just like medication, rest and relaxation exercises work by creating changes in the brain and body. They reduce arousal, allow recovery after stressful days and make training more effective.
Reactivity gets stronger with practice. If your dog practices barking and lunging on every walk, their behaviour will only become more ingrained. Management means reducing exposure to triggers to give your dog’s stress system a chance to reset.
This could mean walking at quieter times or in less crowded places, using a private park instead of a public park, or crossing the street when you see a trigger rather than walking straight into it. You want to avoid any reactive behaviour. Prevent it before it happens. This doesn’t mean that you should keep your dog at home, but that you should really consider where they are going for outings.
Trainers often seem like they can predict a dog’s reaction before it happens. Honestly, it’s all about reading body language. Subtle changes like ears pricking, forward, weight shifts, mouth closing and hard stares often occur before the reaction. Learning to spot these will accelerate your training. You can then increase the distance from the trigger or redirect your dog before they cross their threshold and react.
If your dog reacts at 5 meters, try staying at 7 meters or 10 meters. The more space you give, the more your dog remains calm enough to actually think and learn instead of just reacting. Think of it as working in “think and train” mode, where your dog's brain is still able to learn new skills.
Don’t try new training exercises for the first time while in the middle of loads of distractions. That is like having to write an exam without studying for it. Practice your training exercises in quiet areas before progressing slowly to more challenging environments, then triggers at a distance.
A tightened leash can exacerbate reactivity (or cause it). Many of us unconsciously tense up when we see a trigger and our dogs learn to associate that with stress. Whenever possible, keep a loose leash and move away from the trigger to maintain safety. (Tip: retractable leashes can be dangerous here, but I do recommend longer leashes after learning how to use them properly).
Progress isn’t linear. Don’t jump from “across the street” to “two feet away” in one session. Instead, decrease the distance gradually so your dog always succeeds and never reacts to their trigger. Training should look “pretty boring”. This may mean that you are only progressing a few steps at a time.
Teaching your dog that they can move away (let’s go!”) gives them a safe, non-confrontational option so they get the distance they want from the trigger.
One of the most valuable lessons I have learned is that rest days are training too. If your dog has had a stressful day and encountered lots of triggers on a walk, follow it with a day of calm enrichment at home. This could be puzzle feeders, scentwork games, tricks, or just quiet cuddles to help.
There is an important place for medication in supporting reactive dogs. They can lower anxiety enough for dogs to learn and form positive associations. Training often works best in conjunction with medication. But what’s really exciting is that training calmness and rest can create similar physiological changes. For many dogs, non-pharmaceutical interventions are the first line of defense, with medication added if needed. Both approaches share the same goal: creating a safe and relaxed emotional state so that learning can happen.
Living with a reactive dog can be exhausting and emotional (trust me, I know). Meeting your dog's needs is how you can make meaningful progress. Remember that “reactivity” is not a permanent label but simply a set of behaviours that can change.
If you’re struggling, don’t go at it alone. Work with a qualified behaviour consultant so you can have a tailored plan. Your dog isn’t being “difficult”. We need to help them feel safe.
Download the August 2025 magazine to learn how to choose the right trainer or behaviourist and the red flags to look out for.
Learn more about Angelique
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Angelique is a qualified animal behaviour consultant (DipCABT C.C.A.B.) and trainer, Angelique is also a Blue Level Instructor and Level 1 Judge with the World Scent Dog Association. She is currently advancing her expertise in Animal Behaviour and Welfare at the University of Chester, while also working as a zookeeper, where she gains invaluable hands-on experience with an incredible range of species, from sugar gliders and meerkats to Harris Hawks, tamarins, and tortoises.
At home, Angelique shares life with three beloved dogs—a joyful border collie named Swift, a greyhound, and a terrier—who both challenge and inspire her work. Her professional passions include scentwork, reactivity training, cooperative care, and helping dogs and their humans build happier, more harmonious lives together.
What sets Angelique apart is not only her knowledge and experience but also her heart. Through Treat to Train, she has created a team united by compassion, skill, and dedication to kind, effective training. She is especially proud of the “Paws for Change” initiative, which uses their collective expertise to support animals and communities in need.
Angelique’s vision is simple yet powerful: happy dogs, happy owners, and a world where all animals are understood and treated with kindness.
25 Aug 2025
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